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The sun inputs huge amounts of heat to the ocean, heat that would stay near the ocean's surface if it were not mechanically mixed into the deep. Warm water is less dense than cold water, so that heate...
Influence of Wave Breaking on Wave Statistics for Finite-Depth Random Wave Trains
dimensional analysis 3-D finite element analysis elasto-plastic analysis residual deformations multiple regression analysis oxy-acetylene gas flame
2011/9/8
The influence of wave breaking on wave statistics for finite-depth random wave trains is investigated experimentally. This paper is to investigate the influence of wave breaking and water depth on the...
Lateral Wave Breaking and “Shingle” Formation in Large-Scale Shear Flow
Lateral Wave Large-Scale Shear Flow “Shingle” Formation
2009/1/16
The temporal evolution of large amplitude quasi-geostrophic disturbances in a piecewise uniform potential vorticity flow is elucidated by numerical solutions of the “contour dynamica” equations. Later...
Observations of Small-Scale Mixing Processes in the Seasonal Thermocline, Part II：Wave Breaking
Small-Scale Mixing Processes Seasonal Thermocline Wave Breaking
2009/1/8
Towed thermistor chain measurements are used to describe a large patch of ocean fine- and microstructure. In contrast to the relatively quiescent salt-fingering conditions of Part I, the 3-km long by ...
The effect of wave breaking on the wave energy spectral shape is examined. The Stokes wave-breaking criterion is first extended to random waves and a breaking wave model is established in which the el...
A Comparison of Two- and Three-Dimensional Wave Breaking
Three-Dimensional Two-Dimensional Wave Breaking
2008/10/27
The influence of directionality on wave-packet evolution and in particular on the onset of breaking was explored through laboratory experiment. Lateral tapering was applied to the input signal to prod...
Experimental Investigation of Wave Breaking Criteria Based on Wave Phase Speeds
Experimental Investigation Wave Breaking Criteria Wave Phase Speeds
2008/6/6
Experiments were performed that test the kinematic breaking criterion, which states that the horizontal fluid particle velocity at the surface of a crest exceeds the local phase speed of the crest pri...