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Influence of Wave Breaking on Wave Statistics for Finite-Depth Random Wave Trains
dimensional analysis 3-D finite element analysis elasto-plastic analysis residual deformations multiple regression analysis oxy-acetylene gas flame
2011/9/8
The influence of wave breaking on wave statistics for finite-depth random wave trains is investigated experimentally. This paper is to investigate the influence of wave breaking and water depth on the...
The effect of third-order nonlinearity on statistical properties of random directional waves in finite depth
third-order nonlinearity statistical properties random directional waves finite depth
2009/10/30
It is well established that third-order nonlinearity produces a strong deviation from Gaussian statistics in water of infinite depth, provided the wave field is long crested, narrow banded and suffici...
NUMERICAL ANALYSIS OF FINITE DEPTH PROBLEMS IN SOIL-WATER HYDROLOGY
NUMERICAL ANALYSIS FINITE DEPTH PROBLEMS SOIL-WATER HYDROLOGY
2009/10/29
The types of initial and boundary conditions which may be involved in the
flow of water through an unsaturated profile to a water table are discussed.
A numerical solution of the flow equation is th...
An Instability of Packets of Short Gravity Waves in Waters of Finite Depth
Short Gravity Waves Finite Depth
2009/2/13
We consider the stability of a solitary wave packet of short gravity waves propagating in waters of moderate depth. It is shown that such wave packets are unstable to long transverse disturbances. The...
On the Effects of Finite Depth on Wind-Wave Spectra：1. A Comparison with Deep-Water Equilibrium-Range Slope and Other Spectral Parameters
Wind-Wave Spectra Deep-Water
2009/2/7
Spectral parameters calculated from wind-wave measurements in a finite-depth restricted-fetch estuary are compared with similar deep-water parameters. The equilibrium range of these finite-depth spect...
Nonlinear Properties of Random Gravity Waves in Water of Finite Depth
Nonlinear Properties Random Gravity Waves Finite Depth
2009/1/13
The weakly nonlinear theory for a stationary and homogeneous field of random gravity waves in water of finite depth is developed to the third order. This describes the second-order nonlinearities as a...
A Finite-Depth Wind-Wave Model. Part I：Model Description
bottom friction A Finite-Depth Wind-Wave Model wave growth
2009/1/6
A parametric windsea model for arbitrary water depths is presented. The model is derived from a conservation of energy flux formulation and includes shoaling, refraction, dissipation by bottom frictio...
Wave-and Wind-Driven Flow in Water of Finite Depth
Finite Depth Wave-and Wind-Driven Flow
2008/12/16
The authors first derive both Coriolis-induced and viscosity-induced stresses for arbitrary water depth and arbitrary wave direction. Opportunity is taken here to succinctly and rigorously derive the ...
Nonlinear Energy Transfer through the Spectrum of Gravity Waves for the Finite Depth Case
nonlinear energy transfer Finite Depth Case Gravity Waves
2008/11/26
An algorithm for calculation of the nonlinear kinetic integral is described for the case of finite depth. The use of an effective approximation of the exact dispersion relationship for gravity waves i...
Stability Regimes of Finite Depth Short-Crested Water Waves
Stability Regimes Finite Depth Short-Crested Water Waves
2008/7/22
Stability regimes of three-dimensional surface gravity waves are provided in this study. The stability regimes for waves in water of finite depth differ significantly from those for waves in deep wate...